Sorry for the bad pun, but I couldn’t resist.
The fourth most populous city in Germany, Cologne (or Köln in German), in the state of North Rhine-Westphalia, straddles the bend of the river Rhine. Its old town, Romanesque churches and massive gothic Cathedral are nestled on the west bank; the new town, with its large exhibition centre and modern apartment complexes, springs up on the east bank.
This first part (Part I) sheds some light on the history of this medieval Roman city, explores the magnificent Cathedral and its surrounding attractions. The next part (Part II) starts with a walk to cover the sights in the old town, with a short detour to the swanky modern waterfront district of Reinauhafen. So lace up your walking shoes and let’s take a short tour – a whiff, if it suits you – around the very fine city of Cologne.
Cologne can trace its history back to the year 50 AD when the Roman Empire established Colonia Claudia Ara Agrippinensium (in Latin, which was shortened to Colonia and then to Cologne under the French) on the river Rhine. Forming a natural boundary, the Rhine contributed to the rise of the Empire’s northernmost cities such as Trier, Cologne and Regensburg. This area north of the Alps was conquered by Emperor Augustus and became known as Germania Inferior, with Cologne as its provincial capitol. Roman imperial governors flocked to the city, increasing its popularity and allowing it to become one of the most important trade and production centers of the Empire. During this time, Cologne was also the seat of a bishop, which explains the many Romanesque churches scattered within the old town.
During the Middle Ages, Cologne rose in prominence with the Church. Under Charlemagne, forerunner to the Holy Roman Empire, Cologne’s Bishopric was promoted to an Archbishopric, elevating its status to become one of only seven electors of the Holy Roman Emperor. This was also the period when Emperor Frederick Barbarossa gifted the bones of the Three Wise Men to the Archbishop to be venerated, leading to the crafting of an exquisite gold reliquary in 1225 and the construction of the Cathedral in 1248. In the 13th-century, Cologne gained its independence from the archbishops and became a free city. This meant that it was a self-ruling state within the Holy Roman Empire, with a seat and vote at the Imperial Diet, which, as we saw in my Regensburg post, was a deliberative body within the Empire. Hence, Cologne had the right to contribute to the defense of the Empire and maintain its own military force.
In the early 19th-century, France invaded under Napoleon. The regions left of the Rhine were absorbed into the French Republic, and the city was renamed Cologne. During the 19th and 20th-centuries, Cologne absorbed numerous surrounding towns, and before WWI had already grown to around 700,000 inhabitants, which was further spurred by the onset of industrialisation. Cologne emerged relatively unscathed during WWI, but was heavily carpet-bombed during WWII under Operation Millennium, which saw more than 1,400 tons of bombs dropped from 1,046 heavy bombers from the British Royal Air Force. After Germany’s surrender and under the city’s 1947 masterplan, a massive effort was undertaken to rebuild from ruins, including the 12 Romanesque churches that were destroyed. Since then, Cologne has done an excellent job in moving ahead with the times while carefully preserving its former buildings.
In modern times, this city of 1.1 million emits a refreshingly laid-back vibe when compared to the likes of other big cities in its category such as Frankfurt and Berlin. However, Cologne plays on the big leagues. It is a major cultural centre and a large university town, with the University of Cologne as one of the oldest and largest in Germany. Lufthansa, the German national airline, has its headquarters here, as do the European Astronaut Centre. It is a powerhouse in its own right, and one of the fastest growing cities in Germany (8% from 2001 – 2014).
Cologne’s old town and sights radiate out in a semicircle from the Hauptbahnhof, and most can be seen on foot or within a short bus ride. Trains approach the city by passing through the Hohenzollernbrücke (or Hohenzollern Bridge), a mighty steel bridge that straddles the river. Constructed in 1907 and inaugurated by Emperor Wilhelm II, it consists of three side-by-side truss arch bridges, each with three arches, which have become characteristic of German bridge architecture. Together with its two massive pillars of reinforced concrete, the bridge has a combined weight of 24,000 tonnes. This is also Germany’s busiest bridge, seeing around 1,500 train crossings a day (about 60 trains per hour!) and the thundering sound as trains zoom past is a constant background noise. The latest craze these days, as it is with other notable structures around the world, is for couples to chain padlocks (with their names and dates inscribed) to the bridges’ railings and to throw away the key as a demonstration of their undying love.
The Hauptbahnhof sits in the shadow of the magnificent Cologne Cathedral (Köln Dom) (daily, 6am – 8pm, free). The station’s two underground passages, surrounded by bakeries, supermarkets and electronic shops, is a hive of activity during the day, and allows passengers to access the 11 platforms above.
Emerging from the station’s subterranean shopping arcade and onto the Bahnhofsvorplatz, the magnificent outline of one of the largest gothic cathedrals in the world comes into view. I can remember standing here in this square 13 years ago during my travels as a grad student, and just marvelling silently – mouth agape – at the size and grandeur of this gigantic superstructure.
And no wonder: the seat of the Archbishop of Cologne and the administration of the Archdiocese of Cologne, this renowned monument was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1996. It is Germany’s most visited landmark, and at 157m tall (or around 43 stories high), the Cathedral is the tallest twin-spired church in the world, the second tallest in Europe after the Ulm Minster, and the third tallest church of any kind in the world. For a period during the 19th-century after the towers were completed, it was actually the tallest structure in the world.
Standing at the foot of its massive twin-spired facade feels like staring into a mountain of stone, one of sheer width and height, decorated with hundreds of stained-glass windows, spires and sculptures. You can’t even capture the full scale of its western facade on camera without having to stand all the way back on the row of steps along the Domkloster. It really puts the size of a human in perspective against the importance and grandeur of God Almighty.
The Köln Dom, probably the most ambitious project north of France in the 13th-century, was constructed on a site that already had a predecessor church building for the gathering of the Merovingian episcopal community in 313 AD. After that, the Old Hildebold Cathedral, consecrated in 870 AD and named after Bishop Hildebold, a close advisor to Charlemagne, was constructed. The old cathedral was already one of the largest churches during the Carolingian times (a Frankish-dominated empire, forerunner to the HRE) and was considered the architectural role model of churches during that era.
In July 1164, the Archbishop of Cologne and the Imperial Arch-Chancellor brought the bones of the Three Wise Men (from the famed Nativity scene of Jesus’s birth) from Milan, in Italy, to Cologne, as a gift by Emperor Frederick Barbarossa from war spoils and were considered worthy of veneration. Between 1190 and 1225, the reliquary known as the Shrine of the Three Kings was crafted by expert goldsmiths to contain the remains of the highly respected saints and placed in the center of the old cathedral. This reliquary, ranking amongst the largest in the world, is an immensely sophisticated work of art conceived in the Middle Ages, and automatically transformed Cologne to an internationally renowned place of pilgrimage.
In honour of these relics, the townsfolk in Cologne began to draw up plans to demolish the old cathedral and construct a church worthy of the treasures within. At that time, they envisaged the largest church ever built. Donations from all around Germany and the Empire poured in, and the church laid its first foundation stone on 1248. Unfortunately, during the turmoil of the religious reformation which saw the rise of Martin Luther’s Protestantism and the Thirty Years War, Catholic pilgrims stopped coming, the funds dried up, and construction stopped. For about 400 years from 1473 to 1842, the Cathedral lay unfinished, with only a section walled up so that mass could continue. At that time, Cologne’s skyline (as seen from many paintings) was punctuated only with the image of a huge crane on top of the unfinished west spire.
The rise of German patriotism after the unification of Germany following Napoleon’s invasion led to the formation of the Prussian Empire in the early 1800s. Funds poured in to make the Köln Dom great again. With renewed interest and a strength of close to 700 workers going at full speed, the unfinished Cathedral was completed in a remarkable 38 years, true to its original architectural plan, in 1880.
Being such an important sight throughout Germany, it is perhaps wise to join one of the English guided tours (daily, every hour, €10) that meet at the ground floor of the Domforum, just opposite the Dom. With individual headsets provided, knowledgable guides bring you on an interesting 60 minute tour of the history of the Cathedral, its preservation during the war, and explanations on some notable features within. During the tour, there are ample opportunities to take a seat at a pew and gaze in amazement at this triumphant feat of medieval engineering and the many spectacular works of art adorning the chapels.
Entering the Cathedral through its intricately decorative centre portal, you immediately feel small. The pointed arches framing the stained-glass windows rise 18 metres. The ceiling, with rib vaults, is 140 metres above you. Everything about the interior is designed to remind humans of its place in the greater scheme of things. Along the sides, towering panels of stained-glass windows fills the church with light, allowing pilgrims to both marvel at God’s work and learn about his teachings through the pictorial descriptions portrayed by the multi-coloured stained-glass art.
It is hard not to walk around in a state of awe. After recovering though, take a walk around the nave and transept to view other notable sights. The stained-glass windows at the furthest end, framing the individual chapels, are medieval, dating to around 1265.
The reason why these stained-glass have survived so long was due to quick thinking by the locals. During the war, in anticipation of aerial bombing, townsfolk dismantled and hid them safely together with other treasures during air-raids. While the stained-glass art is widely admired, conversely, the new abstract window at the right transept by local artist Gerhard Richter, comprising a pattern of 80 colours in different hues, was installed in 2007 and had its fair share of critics since.
Wandering further in to the left side of the church is the Chapel of the Cross containing the Gero-Crucifix. It is the oldest surviving crucifix north of the Alps and dates back to 970 AD. Immediately noticeable is that Jesus is portrayed in a different pose and expression.
A benefit of joining the tour is that it allows access into the choir area behind the high alter (usually fenced and locked) where the Shrine of the Magi is kept. This reliquary is made up of a wooden base with gold and silver overlay. Around 1,200 gilded silver, jewels and enamels adorn the sides. It looks a bit like a casket, with two compartments at the bottom and one above, and along the casket’s length are prophets from the Old Testament at the bottom and 12 New Testament apostles on the top. Inside are the supposed bones of the Three Magi, the first pilgrims to recognise the birth of Christ by following the star of Bethlehem to the lowly stable to offer gifts of gold, myrrh and frankincense.
In July 1864, the Shrine was opened, revealing the remains of three persons – one in his youth, one in early manhood and the other fairly aged, and likely to be the identities of the Three Wise Men – Caspar, Melchoir (King of Persia) and Balthazar (King of Arabia). Whilst in the area, take a look at exquisite mosaic floor depicting images of Mary, the Saints, Archbishops and important Cathedrals in Christiandom.
There are other activities to do within the Dom. Not for the faint-hearted, a climb up the south tower’s church spire involves a heart-pounding, sweat-inducing, 509 steps to the very top, where one is greeted with heavenly views of the city and the river. On the way, pass by the Glockenstube where the Dom’s nine huge bells, including the largest free-swinging bell at 24-tons, are hung.
Alternatively, a less strenuous visit to the Treasury below the Cathedral allows one to tour the stone cellar vaults, with exhibits showcasing medieval reliquaries, embroidered Bishop’s robes and silver chalices. Both the tower and the Treasury require an entrance fee.
If you want to see something for free, head back outside the Cathedral to the square in front. Here is a replica archway that, in AD 50, used to be part of the north gate into this former Roman city. It stands beside a replica of the tip of the Cathedral spire – the real one is 157m above you.
For a quick snack or a sumptuous high tea, head a few steps down Unter Fettenhennen to Cafe Reichard (daily, 830am – 7pm). This elegant cafe with its regal entrance and posh lettering over the door opened in 1855. In 1986, due to the demand from paying customers, the cafe added a glass pavilion, offering an alternative seating area with a striking round roof. This beloved institution serves mains as well as outstanding homemade desserts such as cakes, tarts and pastries from its experienced pastry chef, as well as pralines and chocolates. We tried the black forest, apple tart and a light cream-cheese cake; all looked scrumptious and tasted divine. The best part though, is enjoying gorgeous views of the Cathedral’s facade from its large full-length windows.
After savouring Cologne’s magnificent gothic centrepiece over a delicious tart or two, embark on a browse through several world-class museums nearby, such as the Romisch-Germanisches Museum (Roman-Germanic Museum) (temporarily closed), which chronicles the city’s archaeological heritage as a provincial capitol from prehistory to the early Middle Ages. The museum was opened in 1974 on the site of a Roman urban villa, hence it’s prized piece is a fine Roman mosaic floor, formerly the dining room of a rich merchant’s house. Besides this, the other noteworthy exhibits include the largest collection of Roman glass anywhere in the world, as well as amazing collections of early medieval jewellery. As the museum is undergoing a massive refurbishment at the moment, and some of the prized exhibits have been relocated to The Belgian House near Neumarkt.
Another museum close by and worth visiting is Museum Ludwig (Mon closed, 10am – 6pm, €16), housed in a large and spacious red brick building shared with the Köln Philharmonic, just east of the Dom. It features an extensive collection of modern Expressionist art by lawyer Josef Haubrich, who successfully managed to keep it out of Nazi hands until after the war, when he donated his entire works to the City of Cologne in 1946. Later in 1976, Peter and Irene Ludwig donated around 350 works of modern art to the city in return for the erection of this dedicated museum, which until 1986 housed artworks from the Ludwig and Haubrich’s collections, as well as other medieval and early Renaissance paintings. In 1994 it was decided to split the collections into two, with the older works carted off to the Wallraf Richartz Museum, which we will visit later.
The museum includes noteworthy expressionist paintings by famous German painters such as Max Beckmann and Otto Dix. It also includes the third largest collection of Picasso paintings outside of Barcelona and Paris, as well as some paintings by the American pop-artist Andy Warhol, whose muses include the likes of Marilyn Monroe and a can of Campbell Soup.
The museum is extremely spacious and covers over 3 floors, including a basement with interactive activities. It has a airy and symmetrical atrium with pleasing decorative sculptures and large artwork displays. Now, I can’t say that I understand or appreciate modern art (trust me, I’ve tried) nor can I even begin to describe it here, because I think it’s all about looking at it from your own perspectives. However, I did appreciate some of the textures and waveforms created using common materials, such as the one below using hundreds of nails hammered into a spiral. I can’t really tell what it represents, but all I can say is that it is pleasing to the eye (see, I’m trying).
A good place to mull over what you’ve seen is a stroll south along Unter Goldschmied. This brings you to the Alte Markt, the former Old Market Square and an extremely pretty open plaza surrounded by narrow, medieval-looking buildings. The square transforms into a bustling Christmas Market, complete with a carousel and ferris-wheel, every December. Watching over the square is the Historisches Rathaus der Stadt Köln (Cologne Historic City Hall) with its gothic tower, one of the oldest in Germany and symbolising civic spirit standing strong against the power of the Bishops in the 15th-century. More information on the square and tower will be provided in my next post.
A mere five minutes away is the renowned Wallraf Richartz Museum (closed Mon, 10am – 6pm, €10). Housed in a modern brick-and-glass building designed by local architect Oswald Mathias Ungers, the museum’s three floors showcase a world-class collection of fine art, covering the span of gothic period, the Renaissance and Baroque era, as well as portraits and Impressionist paintings. However, its main highlight is artwork from the Cologne school of painting, a term coined in the 19th-century which typically refers to German artists who had their workshops in medieval Cologne. There are also very nice views of the Cologne Dom and Gro𝜷 St Martin from the big windows on the third floor.
Start at the top floor, which features Renaissance and Baroque paintings that show curvy and nude Christian figures, and work your way down. The second floor has many medieval artworks by the Cologne School of painters, typically from the 14th and 15th-century, with the highlight being Stefan Lochner’s “Madonna of the Rose Bower”, a late gothic masterpiece. It also includes numerous diptych and triptychs, which are two or three panelled artworks that contain images of biblical scenes that can be opened or closed during prayers, that form the alter pieces in churches or wealthy homes. In the middle room are long rows of pews and a wooden crucifix with many alter pieces, resembling a church.
In the basement are Impressionist paintings by renowned artists such as Vincent Van Gogh and Claude Monet (his famous work on water lilies), as well as a few portraits by Rembrandt. It is a fascinating museum with many great masterpieces, most of them with English descriptions, and worth spending a few hours quietly contemplating their beauty.
When dusks falls, take a stroll along the waterfront (we’ll visit here again in the next post) and try some of the restaurants or cafes concentrated along the streets of Fischmarkt, Salzgasse and Buttemarkt (you can probably guess this used to be a farmer’s market). Some of these include Brauhaus Sünner im Walfisch and Brauerei Pfaffen, housed in attractive timber-framed buildings down narrow cobbled streets and crowded with both tourists and locals.
Our dinner venue was Haxenhaus – Deutsches Restaurant Köln am Dom (1130am – 11pm), crowded with locals and located just at the waterfront. It specialises in freshly grilled pork knuckle (probably a must-have in Germany), Cologne schnitzel (grilled, not deep-fried) and homemade bratwurst, served in a warm and cosy traditional tavern that has been around for 800 years.
Don’t forget to try Cologne’s own brewed ale – Gaffel Kölsch, which is clear, hoppy and light and made from local breweries. It is one of Germany’s most strictly defined beer styles: in 1986, 24 brewers of Cologne and around the vicinity agreed upon the Kölsch Konvention, which sets out the brewing process to be used, and restricted the use of the Kölsch label only to breweries in Cologne. Each German city has their own brew, taste and fermenting process, of which the locals are distinctly proud of, so woe to you if you order the wrong type of beer in a local pub.
With a belly full of pork and beer, head back out to the cool night sky towards the Rhine. The jumble of river cruises moored against the harbour wall and the floodlights illuminating the Cathedral and the Hohenzollern Bridge in the distance make for an excellent post-dinner walk. Sleep the night away and wake up fresh for Part II of the walk tomorrow!
