Now lets talk a bit about Ubud.
This administrative district of around 40 square kilometres is located in the uplands of the small Indonesian island of Bali, about 2 hours drive from the main city of Denpasar. Surrounded by rice terraces, lush tropical forests, mountains and ravines, Ubud attracts both tourists and devotees to visit its holy Hindu shrines, sample local luwak coffee, and peruse artwork, handicrafts and wood carvings, of which Bali is well known for.
Compared to the more commercial seaside resorts of Seminyak and Kuta, Ubud feels authentic and preserved, and it is this authenticity and unabashed promotion of Balinese heritage and traditions, and not to mention the immense beauty of the land, that has lured, and continues to lure, people to visit this region.
The Villa
Luxury villas constructed in ancient Javanese customs using local materials, co-located with private infinity plunge pools and a host of wellness programmes, are relatively affordable in Bali compared to the other popular resort destinations in Thailand such as Phuket and Krabi. With such a huge number of reasonably priced accommodations to choose from, it makes sense to indulge a little when visiting this island.
We chose Nau Villa Ubud, near the Sebatu neighbourhood, as our home over the course of 3 nights. This quiet and intimate spot, nested in the middle of rice fields, has 10 villas stacked in alternating steps down a hill, each with a private pool and outdoor seating area that offers privacy from surrounding villas but brings you refreshing close to nature.
The hotel reception is a smallish hut down a narrow lane between two paddy fields, just wide enough for a small vehicle to pass through. From the reception, a path surrounded by plants and flowers takes a leisurely circuit around the property, making a stop at every villa along the way.
Nau also conducts yoga classes at the communal area overlooking the surrounding terraces, a cosy spot which sets the stage for a romantic candlelight dinner specially arranged by the hotel.
Our one bedroom luxury villa was located right at the bottom of the stack, meaning our private infinity plunge pool faced the neighbouring rice terrace without any obstruction. Our room came with a king-sized bed overlooking the pool, an outdoor patio area with a table and two chairs and two deck chairs. The room also had an attached outdoor shower (enclosed in a stone structure for privacy), basin and toilet (openly facing the rice terraces), and a stone tub for a bubblebath. The room also had all the usual amenities such as safe, TV, mini-fridge and closet.
We paid around S$570 for 3 nights, and it came with breakfast served either at the restaurant or in the villa.
There are many other hotels and resorts around the area catering to tourists with varying budgets, themes and preferences, and even eco-resorts that tout wellness sanctuaries, healing and purification rituals and farm-to-table restaurants. Beside Sebatu, villas can also be found near Ubud town, the famous rice fields at Tegalalang, and even further north near Mount Batur.
The Festival
We were quite fortunate to have visited Bali during Galungan, a religious celebration and holiday that celebrates the triumph of good (dharma) over bad (adharma). This festival, which occurs twice a year, marks the beginning of a 10 day celebration (culminating with Kuningan) in which the spirits of the dead return to visit their homelands. To ensure that they are appeased, the current inhabitants have a responsibility to be hospitable to these spirits through prayers and offerings throughout their home.
An example of an offering is the erection of Penjor poles, said to symbolise both the tail of the Barong, a symbol of goodness, and the peak of Mount Agung, which is an active volcano in Bali’s southeast and recognised by many as a replica of sacred mountain of Mount Meru.
Made of bamboo and decorated with palm leaves, fruits and flowers, Penjor poles in all forms of colours, sizes and ornaments can be seen on every street. To add to the festivities, on the floor outside every house (watch your step!), small wicker baskets containing flowers, sweets and biscuits are beautifully presented as offerings, and temples come alive with various forms of religious prayers, extravagant offerings, and musical tunes. This is the best time to visit if you want to see some local traditions in practice!
The Sights
Ubud Town sprawls out from their “High Street” along Jalan Raya Ubud, and contains low-rise shophouses converted into coffee houses, restaurants and souvenir shops. It is usually crowded with people on sidewalks and honking traffic along the main road.
A better place for a stroll would be the few pedestrianised (though not immune to bicycles and motorcycles) side streets, such as Jalan Goutama, that branch off from the main road and offer a more peaceful amble without the noise and fumes.
Shops line both sides of the streets. Some sell wickerwork, bent and woven into baskets, furniture and bags; paintings of Balinese and Javanese beliefs, customs and landscapes, including serene imagines of Buddha, the famous split gates (candi bentar) that front the holy Hindu temples, and workers tolling in rice terraces under palm trees.
Besides these, stores also sell handcrafted souvenirs that can either come across as gorgeous or tacky, and of course, world-renowned Balinese woodcarvings. These are typically made from either teak, hibiscus or crocodile wood, and often portray mythological figures such as Vishnu, creatures like elephants (representing loyalty, power and wisdom) and scenes from everyday life.
There are some nice cafes and snack shops that line the streets. We stopped at Acai Queen for a yummy and healthy acai bowl, and also for some cold lattes and cakes at Jack Eye Coffee and Eatery. There are many of such cafes around the town, bustling in the early to late afternoon, where you can spend the hours lounging around in comfortable chairs, sipping artisanal coffee and enjoying the cool air-condition.
Refreshed from a nice cold coffee, take a walk along the main drag that is Jalan Raya Ubud. The Ubud Palace (locally known as Puri Saren Agung) was the official residence of the royal family in Ubud, and it is now open to visitors free of charge (8am – 6pm daily).
Built in traditional Balinese form, it was constructed during the reign of Tjokorda Putu Kandel in the 19th century. One of the most elaborately decorated temples in Bali, it comes complete with demonic stone figurines, wooden-roofed temple pavilions, roof-towered gates (kori agung) and pristine courtyards.
The compound is modest in size and it will only take about 20 minutes to cover all ground. When we were there, however, the Palace was erecting a very tall, wooden tower that would serve as an offering during the cremation of a royal family member who had recently passed away. Signboards near the entrance provide interesting information on the construction and cremation process. Come evening, the Palace hosts traditional Balinese dances and performances in the central courtyard.
Just opposite is the Ubud Art Market, a large two-story building built in a modern Balinese style that contains rows of small shops selling Balinese influenced clothing, artwork and other knick-knacks. It is a great place to browse and bargain-hunt for souvenirs.
Just down the road from Ubud Palace is the Pura Desa Ubud, one of the most sacred and beautiful Hindu temples in Ubud and still hosts traditional Balinese dances and performances in the evening, but was sadly closed when we were there.
Further down and tucked into a side street is the Pura Taman Kemuda Saraswati (or Ubud Water Palace), constructed in 1951 and dedicated to Dewi Saraswati, the Hindu goddess of Knowledge, Literature and Art. The outer temple, in traditional Balinese architecture, has a lovely lotus pond with water fountains and spouts that is visible from the main road, and especially enticing on a hot day. One can cross a bridge decorated with Hindu mythological figures towards big ornate doorways at the further end, covered with artistic patterns. However, the temple is itself closed to tourists.
Coming up towards the end of Jalan Raya Ubud is the Museum Puri Lukisan (daily, 9am – 6pm, 50,000IRP), one of the oldest art museums in Bali, consisting of several buildings surrounding a beautiful courtyard. It houses traditional (and modern) art and wooden sculptures from local artists, and it is a nice place to visit, especially in the afternoon when the sun is scorching.
Just up the steps and to the right is the ticket counter and restaurant, offering traditional Balinese cuisine. The two-story building to the immediate left with the spacious and high ceiling is the Founder’s Gallery.
In a corner, the museum tells the story of the people behind the movement to preserve and develop traditional Balinese art – the former Ubud King and his brother, as well as two notable western artists who were in Bali, Walter Spies and Rudolf Bonnet – and how the museum and the local art movement has developed over the years.
The other spaces in the hall are given over to more recent artworks, both depicting modern and traditional themes, with a small tag – in both English and Bahasa Indonesia – beside each painting, describing the artist and his or her sources of inspiration.
While most of the paintings are in the form of tradition Balinese art depicting mythological figures, Hindu deities or scenes in villages, there are some that are a bit more modern, such as a bullock cart chariot race on the beach painted in vivid colours.
The next building, the Wayang Gallery, houses the Wayang Painting Collection, which tells the Hindu mythology of the King of Spirits, Barong, portrayed as a multi-headed lion, to defeat the enemy, Rangda, usually depicted as a terrifying demonic witch (which when told as a parable, surely kept the children in line), with the help of the eagle or kite-like figure Garuda to bring power and swiftness in combat.
The building at the furthest end, the Pitamaha Gallery, houses Pre-War modern traditional Balinese paintings and contain scenes from everyday life.
For a nice meal in Ubud town, there are many local restaurants with great vibes and a relaxed setting, selling traditional Balinese cuisine such as nasi campur, chicken or pork sate (satay), babi guling (roast pork with spices), and tahu (beancurd) and tempeh (fermented soybeans). Most restaurants go by the name of Warung, meaning small family business, usually (and I mean this in the loosest sense) representing authentic and local food. Some of the higher rated establishments include In Da Compound Warung, Tropical Restaurant Ubud and Sun Sun Warung.
We tried the latter, with its entrance along Jalan Raya Ubud, opposite the Neka Art Gallery (closed when we were there). A popular and affordable restaurant selling genuinely local cuisine, with a nice orange-walled sitting area and a small courtyard at the back, it was still crowded with diners even at 3pm. We had the nasi campur (48,000IRP or around S$5), a platter of blue pea rice with 9 appetisers such as fried tempeh, chicken and fish curry, fried ikan bilis (anchovies) and peanuts, sate, and stir fried vegetables, all beautifully contained in their individual banana leaf wrap. Spicy and flavourful, this is a must-try in Bali, and considering the price, extremely worth it.
Another must-try is the bebek goreng (69,000IRP or around S$7), crispy fried duck with rice and 3 accompanying sauces of fried shallots and garlic, a spicy chopped chili and onion salsa, and a sweet and fragrant chili dip. Similar to duck confit, the skin was crispy while the meat was tender and moist. It paired really well with the white rice and sauces.
Around Ubud
There are many top-rated attractions around Ubud, and we hired a private car and driver for more than half a day (6 hours) to tour the sites. Ubud is known for its gorgeous stepped rice terraces cut into the mountain side, and just 10km north from Ubud town is popular Tegallalang and Ceking, a series of beautifully arranged paddies following the traditional and ecologically sustainable irrigation system called “subak”, which connects each rice paddy with the main water source. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, it is also home to a series of restaurants and bars overlooking the terraces, that range from local huts to luxurious establishments.
Tis Cafe is such an establishment (8am – 9pm), and it is usually crowded with tourists all day long. It has great views over the Tegallalang rice terraces, either at one of the tables under a shady umbrella, or at the rim of the infinity pool (with minimum spending). The Cafe has one of the best vibes around Tegallalang, with delicious food and alcoholic drinks to boot. Being a tourist magnet, it is slightly more expensive than most of the restaurants in Ubud Town, but the quality is second to none. We had the nasi campur and a mee soto, washed down by tropical fruit punch and Bintang beer.
Nearby is the entrance to the rice fields of Tegallalang, with an entrance fee of 50,000IRP (S$5) per person. A windy path runs all the way down to the bottom of the paddies, with bamboo handrails installed at steep staircases for safety.
While the best view is naturally from the top, taking a trek down the side of the elevation (about 20 minutes per way) allows you to come close to each individual rice paddy, and watch the amazing irrigation at work. The majority of rice grown here, known as the Miracle Rice, is of the genetically modified variant that is more resistant to pests and takes around 3 – 4 month to grow.
A bamboo hut at the bottom sells water, coconuts, soft drinks and local fruits such as mango, rambutan and longan and it is a good break for a refreshment before the long and windy trek back up.
The Tegallalang swings, popular with the ladies because it comes with a choice to rent a brightly coloured dress with a long train, allows for that beautiful Instagrammable shot against a breathtaking rice terrace background. There are also a variety of activities to do at the rice fields, from simple platforms to snarl that beautiful shot of the terrace, to the more adventurous ones like the zip line (either sitting or lying down) that allows you to float above the rice fields in a series of paths.
Being a hilly region, Ubud is also home to many waterfalls. Layana, Tibumana and Kanto Lampo are very popular with tourists, but we visited the modest Ulu Pertanu instead, which was recommended by our driver and near our villa. Getting to the waterfall itself is an adventure, requiring a short descent through multiple steps from the main carpark into a ravine, complete with small hops along stepping stones into the dense lush forest.
The cacophony of cascading water on rocks greets you before you see the frothy column, and the plunge pool and surrounding lake is shallow enough to allow you to swim up to the base of the falls. Small sandy spots along the banks and protruding rocks provide a handy space for you to change and drape your clothes. A small wooden bridge allows you to trek up river to a clearing with a small hut that sells drinks and fruits.
Nearby, and one of the most important attractions within Ubud is the Holy Spiritual Temple of Tirta Empul. Considered by many in the Balinese Hindu community to be sacred place, the temple has several holy springs said to have created by God Indra. Such is its popularity that both locals and tourists flock there by the hundreds to bathe in its purified waters.
Tirta Empul, which loosely translates in Balinese as “water gushing out from the earth”, is dedicated to Vishnu, the Hindu God of water, and therefore considered a holy spring. The temple also includes shrines to Shiva, Vishnu, Brahma, as well as one for Indra and Mount Batur. It is considered one of the five most holy temples in all of Bali and one of its holiest water sources.
At the front of the temple is a big carpark and the drop off point. Upon entering, large Balinese stone gate (known as candi bentar) greets you. This is the temple’s outer courtyard, shaded by large evergreen trees and a nice place for a short stroll. At the end is another wall with a gate that leads into the central courtyard. This gate is guarded by huge carved statues of two guardians, and at the top of the gate is a carving of Kala, a Balinese and Javanese God of Time, Death and Creator of Earth and Light, which has fangs that stick upwards and a pair of hands with open arms.
Through the gate and into the inner courtyard, you will arrive at the Jaba Tengah area, the main area of the temple. Here are two large sacred purification pools into which there are 30 spouts of gushing water – the Holy Springs. Local Balinese and Hindu worshippers, and a lot of tourists, stand in long lines before the pools, waiting to enter them and dip their heads under the waterspouts in a purification ritual known as melukat. There is a process to this, and bathers have to stand waist-deep in the left pool before the first spout, and then proceed down the row of spouts, standing in queues if it gets too crowded. Once they have cleansed themselves under the first spout they join the next queue. This process is continued until they have cleansed themselves under each waterspout.
When we were there, due to the festival of Galungan, there were many locals decked in white as well as priests decked in traditional and colourful garbs. They were there to attend a ceremony commemorating the death of Mayadenawa, which occurs every 210 days in the Balinese traditional calendar as the day when Virtue triumphs over Evil. The air was heavy with incense and chants, and music was ringing in our ears. Upon exiting the temple complex, there are many small shops with persistent shopkeepers that want to sell you everything from Buddhist trinkets, to Balinese print elephant pants, to coconuts.
For somewhere a little more quiet, visit the Holy Water Sebatu, a small secluded temple which holds profound religious importance for the Balinese Hindus.
This sacred spring is believed to possess healing and purifying powers, and it’s often visited by devotees seeking spiritual renewal by cleansing the body, mind and soul. There are five springs at Sebatu, and the steps for purification are the same everywhere: after stepping into the water, bow in front of each spout with joined hands in the traditional posture of Hindu praying, before submerging your head underwater. The act of water purification is to wash away the negative energy so that your body can be receptive in welcoming the good energy. The whole ritual is usually completed with rice being placed on the forehead, usually by a priest, as a symbol of good fortune and prosperity, as well as prayers.
Besides the bathing pools, there are also large ponds filled with carp, where you can buy a small packet of fish food to feed them. There aren’t as many crowds as Tirta Empul.
Ubud is an amazing place to experience the rich culture and traditions of Bali, and offers one a great opportunity to get up and close to its rituals and interact with its friendly locals. Overall, Ubud is a refreshing breath of air compared to the more touristy parts such as beach-loving Seminyak. Whilst other areas invigorate your senses, let Ubud sooth and rejuvenate your soul.
